Sangbay ni Ragsak (Waterfalls of Happiness)

About an hour's drive from San Fernando, La Union, heading northeast, is a quiet little town called Suyo (Ilocos Sur)--population (August 2014) of approximately 12,000 people. Armand suggested we ride our motorbikes to check-out some waterfalls in Suyo with his friend, Jessie, who is, in turn, a friend of Suyo's Mayor, Samuel "Mario" Subangan Jr. And so, off we rode to Suyo at the crack of dawn on Wednesday, August 27, 2014.

It was a relatively leisurely ride from Rancho Caridad (Nampicuan, Nueva Ecija), which lasted about four (4) hours. The last hour of the trip was the stretch from San Fernando, La Union to Suyo, Ilocos Sur, with the final half-hour traversing good concrete "twisties" until we stopped to take a break at the Mayor's home. Before we knew it, lunch was served and, thereafter, the Mayor lent us his 4x4 and instructed his staff to bring us to Sangbay ni Ragsak, which is Ilocano for Waterfalls of Happiness.

From the Mayor's house, which is right across the munisipyo, it was a picturesque 20 minute ride on the 4x4 (through concrete roads) plus a relatively easy 20 minute trek on foot. Sangbay ni Ragsak is comparable to Pagsanjan Falls in Laguna and Bomod-Ok Falls in Sagada. However, there is no need to "shoot the rapids" (admittedly part of the fun in Pagsanjan) or to trek one to two hours (as in the case of Bomod-Ok) to reach the falls itself. Further, the pools below Sangbay ni Ragsak are ideal for taking a dip, which is exactly what we did when we got there.

Afterwards, we were brought to the eco-tourism pool resort operated by the municipal government, which is clean and well-maintained. It has a couple of rooms that can be rented for P800 per room per night as well as a cottage for an entire family for P3,000 per night. It's surrounded by forest trees and mountains, with only the sound of the nearby spring and the soft wind to relieve the most stressed nerves. Shortly thereafter, we dropped by the Mayor's office to convey our gratitude and appreciation. Although our visit was brief, it illustrates without a doubt that genuine old-fashioned Filipino hospitality is alive, well, and embodied in Mayor Mario and the town of Suyo.

Lolo Bino, President Quezon and Judicial Independence

After the ratification of the new constitution on May 14, 1935, the National Assembly through Commonwealth Act No. 3, reduced the membership of the Supreme Court from eleven to seven. The reduction could have become a full-blown political controversy if not for the decisions of five American court members to resign their posts. The all-Filipino judiciary now had the task of restraining President Manuel Luis Quezon, the dominant figure of Philippine Commonwealth politics.

Unfortunately, the judiciary provided timid resistance to Quezon. The president sought to influence the judiciary through his public pronouncements as well as discreet maneuverings.

In the early years of Lolo Bino's career as a judge in the Court of First Instance in the City of Manila, the case of Cuervo versus Barredo (65 Phil. 290 [1938]) landed in his sala at the time President Quezon was running for re-election under the theme of "social justice".  The issue at bar was whether an employer was liable to pay damages to the heirs of an employee who drowned when ordered to retrieve a piece of log in the river by the employer’s foreman.

Quezon, a consummate panderer to the masses and the original "trapo" of Philippine politics, wanted Padilla to decide in favor of the underdog. However, Padilla of the Court of First Instance ruled that no liability existed due to the negligence of the employee to ensure that he would not drown. True to form, Quezon summoned Padilla to Malacanang and berated him like some errant houseboy. Out of respect for the Presidency, Padilla responded:

"Your excellency, I decided on the case based on my understanding of the law, the dictates of my conscience and, above all, my fear of the Good Lord. If you do not approve of my decision, then I hereby tender my resignation."

Quezon did not accept Padilla's resignation. Instead, he had Padilla assigned to one of the most dangerous judicial posts in the Philippines--the Court of First Instance in the Island of Jolo. This was a veritable death sentence, particularly in light of the infamous Moro juramentados in Jolo, who would murder government personnel (including soldiers and judges) in the name of Islam--Quezon's payback for Padilla's judicial independence.

The decision of Padilla at the Court of First Instance was affirmed by the Court of Appeals. Quezon lambasted the court rulings as one that was made by “seventeenth century judges interpreting twentieth century laws” (Guevarra 1999, 451). The public pronouncement was made before the Supreme Court rendered its decision on the highly-publicized case. The Supreme Court did reverse the decisions of the lower courts, but Justice Laurel strongly rebuked the president’s antics during and after the Cuervo case.

During his "tour of duty" in Jolo, Padilla sentenced a number of prominent Muslims to death and personally attended the executions of the same. Yet, he would take daily walks along the beach without the protection of any bodyguards. Many years later, when his son, Tito Bing, attended a hearing in Jolo, he noticed one picture frame in the hall of justice (which has since burned down). It was the picture of then Judge Sabino Padilla, who was apparently beloved by the local Muslim community due to his judicious and fearless decisions in court. At the wake of Lolo Bino, many Muslims travelled from Mindanao (including Jolo) to Manila to pay their last respects. 

Quezon had his way with the Court in a lot of cases. In his memoirs, Justice Malcolm (1957) commented that Quezon “had his prerogatives confirmed by the Supreme Court” (p. 131). Justice Isagani Cruz and Cynthia Datu (2000, 89) remarked that during the period “executive intervention was so widely known.” Quezon almost always had his way with the Court. It was said that “Ozaeta (Quezon’s Attorney-General) never won in the Supreme Court, but Quezon never lost” (Ibid., 90).

Oyster Heaven

I googled this picture of oysters but the ones I ate were at least as meaty as these.

I love a hearty serving of fresh meaty oysters, simply blanched in boiling water for a couple of minutes. This also makes it easier to pry these suckers open with a sharp knife (blade should not flex). WARNING! You will probably slice your finger one way or another if you are not extremely careful. Be sure the sharp side of the knife blade is pointed away from any part of your fingers, hands, legs or body when opening oyster shells. Doused with vinegar and onions, you are all set to slurp, slurp, slurp.

Last Saturday (August 2, 2014), my friend, Armand Bernal, invited me to visit his first cousin, Fernando "Pando" Bernal, who lives in Rosario, La Union--about an hour northwest of Rancho Caridad by car. His inducement was . . . fresh oysters. Say no more. It so happens that the younger brother of Pando, Eric Bernal (who lives in Manila), was visiting his brother. So, Armand, who lives in Mocada, Tarlac, was invited for a family reunion of sorts.

Given the extensive coastline of the Philippines, I wonder why fresh high quality meaty oysters are so hard to come by in the Philippines. After surveying the coral reef of Casabangan Bay in Mansalay and learning about its destruction, alongside the destruction of 95% of the coral reefs in the Philippines (alongside the destruction of the 15 million hectares of forest stand in the country--now estimated at less the 2 million hectares, if that; alongside the over-exploitation of the marine resources in the country, which is aggravated by the poaching of endangered species by Chinese fishermen), it all boils down to the overpopulation of ignorant and uneducated people, who just keep taking and taking from the environment without giving back--until the natural environment has nothing more to give. Then, these people turn to the government for subsidy, which the government extorts from taxpayers like me.

Apparently, one can purchase oysters from the public market of Sto. Tomas, La Union. However, they are reportedly run-of-the-mill. The ones delivered to Pando's home, which is located on a two-hectare property in Rosario, La Union (the neighboring town southeast of Sto. Tomas), along the national highway, were oysters grown for home consumption. These were not for sale but given to friends and family on occasion. I was fortunate to partake of these "special" oysters, which were the best I had in all my life. These are grown along the coast of an islet (separated by a sandbar that appears and disappears according to the tide) across the fishhook-shaped bay of Sto. Tomas--see the Google Map below. This counts as one of my treasured discoveries near Racho Caridad.

The True Tales of Pedring Rabino, Part 3

In our modern world today, where mass media, pop-culture and consumerism, by way of the idiot box (i.e., television), have infiltrated and poisoned the minds of people even in the most remote villages in the country, the talk of magical amulets, anting-anting, agimat and the unusual powers they bestow on their custodians is considered laughable, amusing, a thing of the past relegated to the confines of the over-active imagination of the old folks. Yet, the stories remain long after the characters are gone, as vivid, colourful and full of wonder today as when they were told in the past. Perhaps the magic lies not in the amulets but in the stories themselves. They offer a refreshing glimpse of simpler times, the trials and tribulations of the human condition, the spirit of community, the excesses of modern society and the fundamentals of good and evil. Personally, I believe they are still out there, a select few with the powers of the anting-anting. If we learn to drown-out the ever-increasing noise in our midst, then we will most assuredly rediscover them and celebrate their novelty once again.

Here are some of the things I have learned about the anting-anting in the course of seeking and writing about the exploits of Pedring Rabino:

Anting-Anting ng Kalabaw (The Amulet of the Carabao)

One of the most familiar magical amulets is the amulet of the carabao. The carabao is the country’s beast of burden, which has dutifully served our farmers since the advent of agriculture. After they were tamed or domesticated, they were (and still are) used to plow fields and to transport goods, much like a tractor and pick-up truck rolled into one animal. They even serve as playmates of children, especially when bathing in the local streams. Indeed, many farmers consider their carabaos as members of the family and treat them with great respect and fondness.

The carabao from which the amulet is derived is no ordinary carabao. It is called the Tamaraw, an endemic species found in the wild only in the Island of Mindoro and is now critically-endangered. Through the years, it has been recklessly hunted nearly to extinction for food and its natural habitat continues to be reduced by the unmitigated explosion of the human population in the Island.

It is said that the first tooth that is lost by a wild Tamaraw, if retrieved and kept by an individual, will bestow upon him exceptional physical strength. He will also have the ability to control and command any carabao, whether it is wild or domesticated.

It is difficult enough to decipher when a wild Tamaraw will shed its first tooth. Yet, it is even more difficult to take that first tooth from the beast. Allegedly, the Tamaraw will swallow its first tooth instinctively (perhaps due to its magical qualities) to prevent it from falling into the hands of an unintended recipient. So, even if you are astute and patient enough to determine the precise moment that the first tooth will fall, you can expect the Tamaraw to resist or even attack you if you should attempt to take away that first tooth. However, like all magical amulets, if you have a deep and profound desire to acquire it, and if your heart is in the right place and intend to use its powers for good, then you will eventually prevail.

The Amulet of the Carabao in Action

Many years ago, when asphalt was being laid over the dirt roads of Mansalay, there was an elderly farmer who was on his way home along with his carabao, which was pulling a bunch of mature and freshly cut bamboo. The clump consisted of about 8 to 10 pieces of bamboo, each about 4 to 5 inches in diameter at the base and reaching over 20 feet in length. The farmer and his carabao were going to pass through their usual route, which was the main road that had a fresh overlay of asphalt.

When one of the construction workers noticed the heavy haul of bamboo dragging behind the carabao, he requested the farmer to use the detour dirt road to avoid damaging the newly installed asphalt that needed time to congeal and harden. Seeing how much longer a distance his carabao would have to haul the bamboo through the detour, the farmer stopped and unleashed the load from the carabao. He then tied-up the clump of bamboo more securely, bent over the mid-section and effortlessly hoisted the same above his head. He proceeded to walk on the asphalt road, carefully balancing his cargo to prevent any strand of bamboo from touching the road.

To be continued . . .

Fish, Fish Everywhere!

Diving with my cousin, TB, from Planet Dive, Anilao, Batangas. Click the following link for a film clip of our dives on July 13, 2014 (Saddle Rock, Mainit and Beatrice):

Diving with TB in Anilao, Batangas

The sorry state of the marine life and coral reefs in Anilao 20 plus years ago means there is still hope for the devastated coral reefs of Mansalay, Oriental Mindoro. The Sangguniang Bayan of the Municipality of Mansalay just needs to do its job. Pass the pending Mangal Marine Protected Area Ordinance and let the environmental revolution begin!

Read--Road Trip to Mansalay; It's the Environment, Stupid!; Support the Mangal MPA Ordinance!

The Delightful RC Farm Resort in Mansalay

With Rose and Hans Rickenbach . . . and one of their sweet shih tzus, Chelsea

One of the best kept secrets of Mansalay is a family-owned and operated bed & breakfast in Barangay Manaul known as the RC Farm Resort. It's a slice of paradise that is home to Hans and Rose Rickenbach. Starting with a humble bahay-kubo, the couple added improvements and more improvements over the years until they decided to open their gates to tourists--both local and foreign--who appreciate the simple pleasures of the countryside. They have four (4) large comfortable rooms (with high ceilings, toilet and bath) for their guests, two (2) of which have air-conditioners. Fronting the rooms is a large swimming pool with an estimated length of 15 meters. Ariel, the nephew of Rose and one of the friendly staff, is responsible for, among other things, keeping the pool clean and in good swimming condition.

Yes, you can actually do laps on this pool and even train for the swimming leg of a triathlon. The deep end is 10 feet, so a beginner in scuba diving can practice his buoyancy in a controlled environment before heading out to any number of scuba diving spots in the vicinity. Rose and her staff would be more than happy to arrange a bangka to tour the coasts and reefs of Mansalay and Bulalacao.

In the event of a power outage (which occurred only once over a period of approximately 20 minutes during my stay), the resort has a generator for lighting, which enabled me to do my laps in the pool even at night.

Hans, who hails from Switzerland, ensures there is always enough cold beer in the fridge. Just give advance notice to the staff in case you would like to have food prepared. It's like your home away from home and I am grateful that Hans and Rose generously share their slice of paradise with visitors who come to these quiet parts of Mindoro.

The True Tales of Pedring Rabino, Part 2

June 2014, Barangay Don Pedro, Mansalay, Oriental Mindoro. As I was inspecting one of the barangay roads leading to the farm, Ka Porek recalled that a certain Felipe Pinca or Mang Ipe, whose house just happened to be a few paces away, knew many of the tales of Pedring Rabino. At the spur of the moment, we walked over to the house of Mang Ipe, who was comfortably seated at the opposite end from the entrance. Immediately, Mang Ipe looked familiar. Although advance in years, he had a giving smile and big round eyes with full of life. I later found out that he was a former employee when I was a young boy tagging along with Dad to visit the farm. I remembered that Mang Ipe, who is a diminutive and lanky fellow, had a limp in his stride, which he was born with. Yet, he was one of the few people (another one was Ka Porek himself) who would carry Dad (who was over 6 feet tall) over the river when the current was strong. We asked Mang Ipe what he remembered of Pedring Rabino. He grinned from ear to ear and proceeded to tell his story.

The Amulet of the Enchanted Egret

He said Pedring Rabino derived many of his powers from, among other magical amulets (anting-anting or agimat), the egg of an enchanted egret (mahiwagang tagak). This was no ordinary white egret, a migratory bird that frequented the shores and plains of Mindoro. It was invisible to the naked eye and could only be seen through its reflection on the water . . . and only if it allowed itself to be seen in the first place. As chance would have it, Pedring was walking in a secluded part of town when he came across a clear puddle of water that revealed a white egret nesting on the adjacent tree. He looked up to peek at the majestic bird and saw nothing perched on the branches. Intrigued by this most unusual circumstance, Pedring decided to investigate, climbing the tree while keeping his eyes fixed on the reflection of the nesting egret. At the very instant Pedring hoisted himself on the trunk of the tree, the great white egret took flight, leaving its nest behind. Nevertheless, Pedring continued to climb until he reached the nest and inside the nest was a single black egg, which was as hard as a rock.

The Great White Egret

As soon as Pedring took the egg from the nest, a fierce looking Mangyan with a formidable spear appeared from nowhere and challenged him to a duel. Pedring secured the egg in his mouth and proceeded to engage in hand-to-hand combat. His opponent was not only trying to overpower him but was particularly keen on retrieving the egg, which remained in Pedring's mouth. After several minutes of intense fighting, the Mangyan disappeared as mysteriously as it had appeared--apparently satisfied that Pedring was a worthy keeper of the enchanted egret's egg. As the story goes, this was Pedring's most powerful magical amulet, out of several he reputedly obtained over the course of his life.

The Trial of Ipe

When Mang Ipe was about 15 years old, he already knew about the strange talents of Pedring Rabino. In one of their chance encounters, the young Ipe dared to declare to Pedring that he too wanted the powers of Pedring. In response, Pedring explained that Ipe must have a deep and profound desire for the talent before it is to become his own. Thereafter, Pedring instructed Ipe to follow him through the forest, to look straight at him at all times and to never mind anything whatsoever in the course of their journey.

After confirming that Ipe understood his instructions, Pedring commenced their journey into the forest with Ipe in stride behind him. The two had covered a distance of less than a kilometer but were already well within the forest stand, where many creatures dwelt under the cover of the tropical foliage. Suddenly, Ipe heard a skirmish on his side and he immediately glanced to the left to investigate. When he looked forward to continue his trek, Pedring was nowhere to be found. Ipe called out to Pedring several times but there was no response. He decided to press on, convinced that Pedring was not far ahead. After a few minutes of walking, Ipe stopped dead in his tracks, terrified at the sight of a large cobra a few meters in front about to lunge at him. Without thinking, he turned around and ran back to where they commenced their journey--where Pedring was waiting. Ipe then realized that he had failed a test and would not be granted the powers he sought.

Pedring the Prankster

There was a time when the Island of Mindoro was filled with virgin forests. It was only a matter of time before greedy rapacious loggers and corrupt government officials joined forces to rape and pillage mother earth, leaving her barren in the wake of power saws, bulldozers and six-wheelers.

Due to poverty and the scarcity of jobs, locals were constrained to work for these criminals and became unwitting accomplices to the destruction of the environment. Pedring was no exception. He was hired as a security guard at a base camp and laydown area of felled timber. Like any regular guy, Pedring had a sense of humor and, on occasion, would inadvertently manifest his unusual talents when he played pranks on the people around him.

One of the monster workhorses of logging is the bulldozer. These machines were used to clear the way into the thickest jungle as well as move timber that could not be accessed by cranes or trucks. However, during the typhoon season, even the bulldozer occasionally gets stuck in the mud, which is like quicksand with just the right combination of soil and rain.

One particularly rainy morning while Pedring was on-duty at his security post, a bunch of his co-workers returned from the woods to secure ropes and as many men as possible to pull-out a bulldozer that was stuck in the thick of the forest. Shortly thereafter, the entire crew, including Pedring, made their way to the bulldozer, which was nearly halfway sunk in a pool of viscous mud. The men proceeded to tie the ropes on the machine and collectively heaved with all their might as the operator maneuvered forward. Again and again, they heaved and hoed but without success. It seemed like the bulldozer would sink deeper the more they tried to get it out of its pit. Nearly at the point of exhaustion, the men concluded that they would have to bring the other bulldozer, which was located in the next town, to pull this one out of its predicament. This was an expensive proposition reserved as a last resort.

At this point, Pedring quietly suggested that all of nearly 20 men pull together on only one of the three ropes attached to the bulldozer. Although everyone was sceptical that this would make any difference, they had nothing to lose. But again, the dozer would not budge. Then, Pedring suggested that only 10 men pull on the single rope. This time, everyone thought he was crazy. The entire crew was spent and had no intentions of wasting what little energy they had left to trek back to the base camp. Unperturbed, Pedring takes hold of the single rope and signals the operator to drive the bulldozer forward. Slowly but surely, Pedring singlehandedly and effortlessly pulls the monster out of its muddy pit, much to the amazement and disbelief of the rest of the crew.

At another time, the base camp inventory was filled with logs. On this day, Pedring was alone at his post as all of his co-workers were either cutting more trees in the forest or delivering logs to the saw mill. One such load was about to leave the premises. As Pedring opened the gate, the truck driver and the pahinante (driver’s helper) waved goodbye and headed toward their destination.

About halfway through their trip at a popular junction, which had stalls of tuba (fresh coconut wine), the truck driver could not help but notice a familiar face. It was Pedring Rabino. How on earth could he be here, when he was the same person who let them out of the base camp less than an hour ago? The conscientious driver thought, if Pedring is getting wasted on tuba at the junction, then no one is guarding the base camp and too many things can be stolen there in the absence of a security guard.

As it happens, another six-wheeler was on its way back to the base camp along the same route. When the two trucks met on the road, the driver instructed his helper to hitch back to the base camp and to guard the same in the absence of Pedring. In less than an hour, the truck had arrived at the base camp and the pahinante could not believe his eyes. There to open the gate was the same person he just saw at the tuba stall, Pedring Rabino.

The Grievous Tale of Eddie Aceron

It was a day of celebration for Eddie Aceron of Bulalacao. His new bahay-kubo had just been built with the help of his neighbours in the tradition of bayanihan. Naturally, there was plenty of food and liquor for all to partake, and Eddie himself had one too many servings of alcohol for his own good—for Eddie had a dark and violent side when he was under the influence of alcohol.

When the festivities were over and the neighbours had returned to their homes, Eddie, who was now extremely drunk, decided to take a walk towards the center of town. Along the way, he chanced upon Pedring Rabino, who was a dear friend of Eddie’s grandfather. Hence, Eddie knew of Pedring’s feats of strength.

As in many unfortunate instances of drunkenness, a perverse notion came across Eddie’s mind, which was to test the anting-anting of Pedring. He challenged Pedring to a fight, which Pedring refused to dignify, seeing how Eddie was not in the right frame of mind. Nevertheless, Eddie felt insulted and this fuelled his resolve to fight Pedring, even as Pedring was trying to reason out with Eddie.

It all happened very quickly when Eddie managed to grab a hold of Pedring, who offered no resistance whatsoever. Eddie pushed him to the ground face forward, drew his balisong and stabbed him several times at the back. Pedring lay bloodied and lifeless as Eddie withdrew to return to his newly erected house and sleep-off his horrific deed.

The following morning, Eddie realized what had happened and proceeded to his grandfather’s house to confess his terrible actions that resulted in the death of a close family friend. Upon reaching the threshold of his grandfather’s home, Eddie stopped dead in his tracks and shuddered at the sight of Pedring Rabino having coffee and pandesal with his grandfather—alive and well as if nothing had happened the day before.

Pedring glanced in the direction of Eddie and motioned him to come forward. Reluctantly, Eddie approached the two men, who calmly but firmly censured Eddie for his whimsical and murderous behaviour. Then, Pedring left Eddie with a stern warning, “If your grandfather was not my friend, you would be dead by now. You may not be so fortunate the next time you pick a fight.”