Diving around Apo Island

Sans Rival Restaurant, Dumaguete

Dumaguete's bayside boulevard

Somewhere between Malatapay, Zamboangita and Apo Island

Wondering what's in stored in the depths of Apo Island?

Where's the boatman?

I saw at least one pawikan in each of my nine (9) dives. They are all over the place and unafraid of the divers.

Bumphead parrotfish, another critically endangered species found in Apo Island

. . . and another impressive dive . . . (nine dives in all during our stay at Apo Island)

Is this guy fat, dumb and happy or what?

Did you know that one of the oldest operating aquariums in the world (the John G. Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, built in 1930) has a Philippine coral reef exhibit (alongside exhibits of other aquatic environments ranging from the Pacific Northwest to the Amazon River to the Great Lakes) simply called the Wild Reef Exhibit, which opened in 2003 at a cost US$45 million?

The Shedd Aquarium has 2 million annual visitors. It was the most visited aquarium in the U.S. in 2005 and in 2007. It surpassed the Field Museum as the most popular cultural attraction in Chicago. Incidentally, the Wild Reef Exhibit is modeled after Apo Island--not to be confused with Apo Reef, west of Occidental Mindoro.

Apo Island Dive Map. My favorites include Coconut, Cogon and Rock Point East.

Yes! We can see the real thing right here in our own backyard . . . and what a sight to see! Although I am not the most traveled scuba diver, I have been to enough diving sites in the Philippines to assess and compare the ones I have visited. To date, I would rank Apo Island as my number 1 pick, followed by Balicasag, then Anilao at 3rd place. I have gone scuba diving in El Nido but it was "plankton season" according to the locals (Jan to Feb), which results in poor visibility underwater. Hence, I reserve my judgement on El Nido until I have returned under better diving conditions. Next on my target list of dive sites are Puerto Galera, Verde Island, Apo Reef (Occidental Mindoro), Coron, Siargao and Tubataha Reef.

Sites we've gone diving . . . Hitting Apo Reef and Puerto Galera soon!

Apo Island's eco-tourism industry is an excellent success story that can be emulated by many coastal communities in the Philippines. In spite of the catastrophic damage to the marine sanctuary of the island brought about by the super typhoons over the past few years, it's coral reefs around the other parts of the island are still in great shape--better than those I have encountered in Anilao and comparable, if not better, than those in Balicasag. In addition to the marine sanctuary, the local community appears to have a genuine appreciation for the marine life--allowing them to grow to impressive sizes for conservation, eco-tourism and, ultimately, additional livelihood.

Click here for highlights of my dives around Apo Island.

In Apo Island, I am reminded of the unspoiled coral reef of Casabangan Bay, Mansalay, Oriental Mindoro. That was over 30 years ago. I also see its future, if the town's Sangguniang Bayan (SB) quits dribbling and delaying the passage of the ordinance of the proposed marine protected area (MPA) at Casabangan Bay. Inexcusable, unacceptable and an extraordinary waste of government in so far as government is already a waste in most every respect. A bunch of self-important over-entitled morons who expect extra-ordinary reward and recognition for what they ought to be doing in the first place. 

If the Mansalay SB continues to putter around the proposed MPA, it may be time to get the Environmental Ombudsman involved for gross negligence at the very least and, more appropriately, for "bureaucratic terrorism"--a common phenomenon in weak and/or corrupt government institutions in which officials withhold or "hold hostage" a permit, approval and/or endorsement on a whim (just because they feel like it), without rationale basis and/or beyond their realm of authority in order to reinforce their over-inflated sense of self-importance and/or to extort a bribe in cash or kind.

Many thanks to our hosts, Mario and Mila Pascobello, Mac Mac (our fun, capable and knowledgeable dive master), Teresa, Helen and Archer (plays a mean guitar), who shared their home and a slice of their marine paradise with us. See you again next year!

Sangbay ni Ragsak (Waterfalls of Happiness)

About an hour's drive from San Fernando, La Union, heading northeast, is a quiet little town called Suyo (Ilocos Sur)--population (August 2014) of approximately 12,000 people. Armand suggested we ride our motorbikes to check-out some waterfalls in Suyo with his friend, Jessie, who is, in turn, a friend of Suyo's Mayor, Samuel "Mario" Subangan Jr. And so, off we rode to Suyo at the crack of dawn on Wednesday, August 27, 2014.

It was a relatively leisurely ride from Rancho Caridad (Nampicuan, Nueva Ecija), which lasted about four (4) hours. The last hour of the trip was the stretch from San Fernando, La Union to Suyo, Ilocos Sur, with the final half-hour traversing good concrete "twisties" until we stopped to take a break at the Mayor's home. Before we knew it, lunch was served and, thereafter, the Mayor lent us his 4x4 and instructed his staff to bring us to Sangbay ni Ragsak, which is Ilocano for Waterfalls of Happiness.

From the Mayor's house, which is right across the munisipyo, it was a picturesque 20 minute ride on the 4x4 (through concrete roads) plus a relatively easy 20 minute trek on foot. Sangbay ni Ragsak is comparable to Pagsanjan Falls in Laguna and Bomod-Ok Falls in Sagada. However, there is no need to "shoot the rapids" (admittedly part of the fun in Pagsanjan) or to trek one to two hours (as in the case of Bomod-Ok) to reach the falls itself. Further, the pools below Sangbay ni Ragsak are ideal for taking a dip, which is exactly what we did when we got there.

Afterwards, we were brought to the eco-tourism pool resort operated by the municipal government, which is clean and well-maintained. It has a couple of rooms that can be rented for P800 per room per night as well as a cottage for an entire family for P3,000 per night. It's surrounded by forest trees and mountains, with only the sound of the nearby spring and the soft wind to relieve the most stressed nerves. Shortly thereafter, we dropped by the Mayor's office to convey our gratitude and appreciation. Although our visit was brief, it illustrates without a doubt that genuine old-fashioned Filipino hospitality is alive, well, and embodied in Mayor Mario and the town of Suyo.

Lolo Bino, President Quezon and Judicial Independence

After the ratification of the new constitution on May 14, 1935, the National Assembly through Commonwealth Act No. 3, reduced the membership of the Supreme Court from eleven to seven. The reduction could have become a full-blown political controversy if not for the decisions of five American court members to resign their posts. The all-Filipino judiciary now had the task of restraining President Manuel Luis Quezon, the dominant figure of Philippine Commonwealth politics.

Unfortunately, the judiciary provided timid resistance to Quezon. The president sought to influence the judiciary through his public pronouncements as well as discreet maneuverings.

In the early years of Lolo Bino's career as a judge in the Court of First Instance in the City of Manila, the case of Cuervo versus Barredo (65 Phil. 290 [1938]) landed in his sala at the time President Quezon was running for re-election under the theme of "social justice".  The issue at bar was whether an employer was liable to pay damages to the heirs of an employee who drowned when ordered to retrieve a piece of log in the river by the employer’s foreman.

Quezon, a consummate panderer to the masses and the original "trapo" of Philippine politics, wanted Padilla to decide in favor of the underdog. However, Padilla of the Court of First Instance ruled that no liability existed due to the negligence of the employee to ensure that he would not drown. True to form, Quezon summoned Padilla to Malacanang and berated him like some errant houseboy. Out of respect for the Presidency, Padilla responded:

"Your excellency, I decided on the case based on my understanding of the law, the dictates of my conscience and, above all, my fear of the Good Lord. If you do not approve of my decision, then I hereby tender my resignation."

Quezon did not accept Padilla's resignation. Instead, he had Padilla assigned to one of the most dangerous judicial posts in the Philippines--the Court of First Instance in the Island of Jolo. This was a veritable death sentence, particularly in light of the infamous Moro juramentados in Jolo, who would murder government personnel (including soldiers and judges) in the name of Islam--Quezon's payback for Padilla's judicial independence.

The decision of Padilla at the Court of First Instance was affirmed by the Court of Appeals. Quezon lambasted the court rulings as one that was made by “seventeenth century judges interpreting twentieth century laws” (Guevarra 1999, 451). The public pronouncement was made before the Supreme Court rendered its decision on the highly-publicized case. The Supreme Court did reverse the decisions of the lower courts, but Justice Laurel strongly rebuked the president’s antics during and after the Cuervo case.

During his "tour of duty" in Jolo, Padilla sentenced a number of prominent Muslims to death and personally attended the executions of the same. Yet, he would take daily walks along the beach without the protection of any bodyguards. Many years later, when his son, Tito Bing, attended a hearing in Jolo, he noticed one picture frame in the hall of justice (which has since burned down). It was the picture of then Judge Sabino Padilla, who was apparently beloved by the local Muslim community due to his judicious and fearless decisions in court. At the wake of Lolo Bino, many Muslims travelled from Mindanao (including Jolo) to Manila to pay their last respects. 

Quezon had his way with the Court in a lot of cases. In his memoirs, Justice Malcolm (1957) commented that Quezon “had his prerogatives confirmed by the Supreme Court” (p. 131). Justice Isagani Cruz and Cynthia Datu (2000, 89) remarked that during the period “executive intervention was so widely known.” Quezon almost always had his way with the Court. It was said that “Ozaeta (Quezon’s Attorney-General) never won in the Supreme Court, but Quezon never lost” (Ibid., 90).

Oyster Heaven

I googled this picture of oysters but the ones I ate were at least as meaty as these.

I love a hearty serving of fresh meaty oysters, simply blanched in boiling water for a couple of minutes. This also makes it easier to pry these suckers open with a sharp knife (blade should not flex). WARNING! You will probably slice your finger one way or another if you are not extremely careful. Be sure the sharp side of the knife blade is pointed away from any part of your fingers, hands, legs or body when opening oyster shells. Doused with vinegar and onions, you are all set to slurp, slurp, slurp.

Last Saturday (August 2, 2014), my friend, Armand Bernal, invited me to visit his first cousin, Fernando "Pando" Bernal, who lives in Rosario, La Union--about an hour northwest of Rancho Caridad by car. His inducement was . . . fresh oysters. Say no more. It so happens that the younger brother of Pando, Eric Bernal (who lives in Manila), was visiting his brother. So, Armand, who lives in Mocada, Tarlac, was invited for a family reunion of sorts.

Given the extensive coastline of the Philippines, I wonder why fresh high quality meaty oysters are so hard to come by in the Philippines. After surveying the coral reef of Casabangan Bay in Mansalay and learning about its destruction, alongside the destruction of 95% of the coral reefs in the Philippines (alongside the destruction of the 15 million hectares of forest stand in the country--now estimated at less the 2 million hectares, if that; alongside the over-exploitation of the marine resources in the country, which is aggravated by the poaching of endangered species by Chinese fishermen), it all boils down to the overpopulation of ignorant and uneducated people, who just keep taking and taking from the environment without giving back--until the natural environment has nothing more to give. Then, these people turn to the government for subsidy, which the government extorts from taxpayers like me.

Apparently, one can purchase oysters from the public market of Sto. Tomas, La Union. However, they are reportedly run-of-the-mill. The ones delivered to Pando's home, which is located on a two-hectare property in Rosario, La Union (the neighboring town southeast of Sto. Tomas), along the national highway, were oysters grown for home consumption. These were not for sale but given to friends and family on occasion. I was fortunate to partake of these "special" oysters, which were the best I had in all my life. These are grown along the coast of an islet (separated by a sandbar that appears and disappears according to the tide) across the fishhook-shaped bay of Sto. Tomas--see the Google Map below. This counts as one of my treasured discoveries near Racho Caridad.

The True Tales of Pedring Rabino, Part 3

In our modern world today, where mass media, pop-culture and consumerism, by way of the idiot box (i.e., television), have infiltrated and poisoned the minds of people even in the most remote villages in the country, the talk of magical amulets, anting-anting, agimat and the unusual powers they bestow on their custodians is considered laughable, amusing, a thing of the past relegated to the confines of the over-active imagination of the old folks. Yet, the stories remain long after the characters are gone, as vivid, colourful and full of wonder today as when they were told in the past. Perhaps the magic lies not in the amulets but in the stories themselves. They offer a refreshing glimpse of simpler times, the trials and tribulations of the human condition, the spirit of community, the excesses of modern society and the fundamentals of good and evil. Personally, I believe they are still out there, a select few with the powers of the anting-anting. If we learn to drown-out the ever-increasing noise in our midst, then we will most assuredly rediscover them and celebrate their novelty once again.

Here are some of the things I have learned about the anting-anting in the course of seeking and writing about the exploits of Pedring Rabino:

Anting-Anting ng Kalabaw (The Amulet of the Carabao)

One of the most familiar magical amulets is the amulet of the carabao. The carabao is the country’s beast of burden, which has dutifully served our farmers since the advent of agriculture. After they were tamed or domesticated, they were (and still are) used to plow fields and to transport goods, much like a tractor and pick-up truck rolled into one animal. They even serve as playmates of children, especially when bathing in the local streams. Indeed, many farmers consider their carabaos as members of the family and treat them with great respect and fondness.

The carabao from which the amulet is derived is no ordinary carabao. It is called the Tamaraw, an endemic species found in the wild only in the Island of Mindoro and is now critically-endangered. Through the years, it has been recklessly hunted nearly to extinction for food and its natural habitat continues to be reduced by the unmitigated explosion of the human population in the Island.

It is said that the first tooth that is lost by a wild Tamaraw, if retrieved and kept by an individual, will bestow upon him exceptional physical strength. He will also have the ability to control and command any carabao, whether it is wild or domesticated.

It is difficult enough to decipher when a wild Tamaraw will shed its first tooth. Yet, it is even more difficult to take that first tooth from the beast. Allegedly, the Tamaraw will swallow its first tooth instinctively (perhaps due to its magical qualities) to prevent it from falling into the hands of an unintended recipient. So, even if you are astute and patient enough to determine the precise moment that the first tooth will fall, you can expect the Tamaraw to resist or even attack you if you should attempt to take away that first tooth. However, like all magical amulets, if you have a deep and profound desire to acquire it, and if your heart is in the right place and intend to use its powers for good, then you will eventually prevail.

The Amulet of the Carabao in Action

Many years ago, when asphalt was being laid over the dirt roads of Mansalay, there was an elderly farmer who was on his way home along with his carabao, which was pulling a bunch of mature and freshly cut bamboo. The clump consisted of about 8 to 10 pieces of bamboo, each about 4 to 5 inches in diameter at the base and reaching over 20 feet in length. The farmer and his carabao were going to pass through their usual route, which was the main road that had a fresh overlay of asphalt.

When one of the construction workers noticed the heavy haul of bamboo dragging behind the carabao, he requested the farmer to use the detour dirt road to avoid damaging the newly installed asphalt that needed time to congeal and harden. Seeing how much longer a distance his carabao would have to haul the bamboo through the detour, the farmer stopped and unleashed the load from the carabao. He then tied-up the clump of bamboo more securely, bent over the mid-section and effortlessly hoisted the same above his head. He proceeded to walk on the asphalt road, carefully balancing his cargo to prevent any strand of bamboo from touching the road.

To be continued . . .

Fish, Fish Everywhere!

Diving with my cousin, TB, from Planet Dive, Anilao, Batangas. Click the following link for a film clip of our dives on July 13, 2014 (Saddle Rock, Mainit and Beatrice):

Diving with TB in Anilao, Batangas

The sorry state of the marine life and coral reefs in Anilao 20 plus years ago means there is still hope for the devastated coral reefs of Mansalay, Oriental Mindoro. The Sangguniang Bayan of the Municipality of Mansalay just needs to do its job. Pass the pending Mangal Marine Protected Area Ordinance and let the environmental revolution begin!

Read--Road Trip to Mansalay; It's the Environment, Stupid!; Support the Mangal MPA Ordinance!

The Delightful RC Farm Resort in Mansalay

With Rose and Hans Rickenbach . . . and one of their sweet shih tzus, Chelsea

One of the best kept secrets of Mansalay is a family-owned and operated bed & breakfast in Barangay Manaul known as the RC Farm Resort. It's a slice of paradise that is home to Hans and Rose Rickenbach. Starting with a humble bahay-kubo, the couple added improvements and more improvements over the years until they decided to open their gates to tourists--both local and foreign--who appreciate the simple pleasures of the countryside. They have four (4) large comfortable rooms (with high ceilings, toilet and bath) for their guests, two (2) of which have air-conditioners. Fronting the rooms is a large swimming pool with an estimated length of 15 meters. Ariel, the nephew of Rose and one of the friendly staff, is responsible for, among other things, keeping the pool clean and in good swimming condition.

Yes, you can actually do laps on this pool and even train for the swimming leg of a triathlon. The deep end is 10 feet, so a beginner in scuba diving can practice his buoyancy in a controlled environment before heading out to any number of scuba diving spots in the vicinity. Rose and her staff would be more than happy to arrange a bangka to tour the coasts and reefs of Mansalay and Bulalacao.

In the event of a power outage (which occurred only once over a period of approximately 20 minutes during my stay), the resort has a generator for lighting, which enabled me to do my laps in the pool even at night.

Hans, who hails from Switzerland, ensures there is always enough cold beer in the fridge. Just give advance notice to the staff in case you would like to have food prepared. It's like your home away from home and I am grateful that Hans and Rose generously share their slice of paradise with visitors who come to these quiet parts of Mindoro.